Guernsey, an island garden by Julia Berg

BENEATH us was an almost perfect square of deep raspberry pink with flecks of magenta-purple and even a hint of blue. Beyond, was an impossibly white arc of sandy beach.
The aircraft began its descent to Guernsey just 40 minutes after take-off from Gatwick; in a further five minutes we had landed on this little island which clearly promised some glorious and colourful surprises.
While waiting for my bag at the luggage carousel, a poster informed me that the riot of red-pink we had witnessed was the orchid fields at Les Vicheries. I made a mental note to put this on my “don’t miss” list. Suitcases arrived swiftly, and 30 or so paces brought me to the airport terminal. It had been exactly one hour from take-off.
I had come to Guernsey to see if everything I had heard about the island’s great outdoors was true. I was particularly interested in exploring all things flora and fauna. Friends at home who can name ten different varieties of begonia without drawing breath had told me about agapanthus, which apparently grow here in abundance up to five feet high; they are incredibly difficult to successfully grow at all, back in Bucks. They had regaled me about bluebell woods where nature’s carpet was a rather special shade of blue and they’d talked of a tiny island called Herm, just 20 minutes away by boat and which has around 20,000 summer-flowering plants.
Very soon after arriving on Guernsey, you feel the difference. The scenery is quite remarkable: one minute there will be a green meadow to your left; moments later a dramatic cliff will rise up to your right, hiding a pretty little cove and sandy beach.
The speed limit on Guernsey is just 35mph so, as you meander through flower-filled lanes – really, not an over-used cliché here – there is no chance of being deafened by the sound of the roaring Porsche brigade. 
When I checked into my hotel, the fragrance of freesias was a delight and Carla, the receptionist, assured me they came from “down the road”. It was nice to see that local people supported their own. While strolling in the hotel gardens I was lucky enough to meet Mr le Provost, who had been gardener here for almost 20 years. He lovingly showed me his array of Nerine, more usually called the Guernsey lily, which are great for borders.
During the next two days I was in heaven. I found the Mille Fleurs Garden tucked away in the St Pierre du Bois valley and proudly owned by David and Jane Russell. I had read about this place in a book entitled Inspirational Gardens of the World, published late last year. This is actually a private garden but viewing is possible, by arrangement. Different areas have been set up in under three acres, including a wildlife area with indigenous trees, a tropical area, a jungle area with banana trees and spectacular ferns, and a Mediterranean area.
As I drove across Guernsey, through lanes where cottages and traditional granite barns boast flower boxes simply bursting with colour, I must have seen more than 40 giant agapanthus, both blue and white, and some equally giant echium: it was almost as if they knew I was searching for them, and they were utterly memorable.
My visit was in Spring and, as I wandered through those bluebell woods near the capital St Peter Port on a glorious sunny day, the blue was so blue it almost hurt the eyes.
The island’s capital may be small but it is incredibly pretty and worthy of at least a few hours’ visit. Irrespective of which way you tour the island, St Peter Port is a gem and an interesting mix of cobbled streets, superb restaurants to suit all budgets. There are some good museums, boutique shops and the harbour, with yachts bobbing alongside fishing boats. The seafood on Guernsey is some of the best in the world and there’s no shortage as in parts of the Mediterranean.
Standing above the town is Castle Cornet, which appears to teeter on the edge of the sea wall. This is the place to go for the story of the sea, a  cup of tea with a view, or to enjoy one of the performances that take place here in summer amid the beautiful terraced gardens.
And do not miss a visit to Guernsey Museum, which tells all of the stories of the island’s interesting history, nor Hauteville House, now a museum but it still feels like the home of Victor Hugo who was exiled here from 1856-70 and was where he wrote much of Les Misérables and Toilers of the Sea.

With more than 28 miles of cliff path, islanders and visitors can take in walks with fabulous views without bumping into hordes of people. When I did my walk from Fermain Bay to Le Petit Bot, I passed just one couple with their gorgeous labrador.
This year, Spring Walking Week is in May and Autumn Walking Week is in September. Both offer a programme with accredited guides who know some amazing quirky facts about gardens, hidden pathways and plants. Many of the walks are free.
Two festival weeks in July and in late September-early October tell the whole story of floral Guernsey. There are experts on hand to give tips, workshops, talks and regular reminders that this little island is still the world’s largest producer of clematis and also still provides two-thirds of all freesias sold in the UK.
Floral aficionado I may be, but it is really worth taking a look at the island’s history. Guernsey, rather bravely, still sells herself on her dramatic past and pristine nature with, thankfully, not a theme park in sight.
I marvelled at the amazing heritage, from ancient burial chambers to World War Two bunkers. There are standing stones and burial sites from Neolithic times, and Les Fouillages burial chamber is believed to be one of the oldest man-made structures in Europe. If you are fascinated with this aspect of Guernsey’s past, take in the German Occupation Museum near the airport. This simple place perfectly tells the story of the occupation by means of dusty documents, bandages and so on without a hint of Disneyfication, and it is utterly moving. 
And, talking of nature, I must mention the owls. I have been in love with these beautiful birds since my childhood. La Société Guernesiaise, the islands local research, natural history and conservation society, runs a wonderful project providing barn owl and kestrel boxes. Some 500 boxes have been installd to date around Guernsey.
I was lucky enough to see a barn owl one evening. I was enjoying some fresh air and Monsieur Owl was perched in a tree, obviously keeping an eye out for a supper of some dawdling mouse or vole.
I am unsure who said that the most beautiful things come in small packages, but he or she could well have been talking about Guernsey. But I will say this: two days really was not long enough and I’ll be back to see more of those ribbons of floral colour across this stunning little island.
FACTFILE
Flights from VisitGuernsey by calling 01484 723552, or the website  www.visitguernsey.com

DON’T MISS:

BLUEBELL WOODS, NEAR ST PETER PORT

In April, an explosion of blue hails the start of spring in the beautiful secluded wooded area behind Fort George near St Peter Port. Robust imported Spanish bluebells can threaten delicate native species, but Bluebell Woods has not been affected, and for one month there is an endless carpet of the deeper blue local variety.

BRIDGET OZANNE ORCHID FIELDS, LES VICHERIES

The thriving orchid fields, considered the best in the British Isles, are resplendent with four varieties of wild orchid in May, including the loose-flowered orchid, a species not found in the UK. Visits in May

CANDIE GARDENS

Once part of a private estate, the restored Victorian Candie Gardens offer the best view across St Peter Port harbour, with a rare example of a late 19th Century public flower garden. Home to the oldest known heated glasshouses in the British Isles, it dates back to the late 18th Century.  Open all year round until dusk.

SAUMAREZ MANOR GARDENS AND NATURE PARK

The gardens and nature park are jaw-droppingly dramatic. Camellias, magnolias, banana trees and hundreds of exotic plants exist within a true micro-climate resulting from the valley and the shelter of large trees, plus ponds and sculptures. It is utterly different. Children often call it “the jungle” and love it. Open all year round until dusk.

CASTLE CORNET GARDENS

The 13th Century castle contains a number of gardens created through the ages. The 16th Century Sutler’s Garden was a vital source of herbs for medicinal and kitchen use. The Governor’s Garden, from the 18th Century, is a tapestry of lavender and purple sage. 
Open March to October.

VICTOR HUGO’S GARDENS

The gardens of Victor Hugo’s exile home, Hauteville House, have been faithfully renovated by the city of Paris and feature a kitchen garden, fruit trees and Hugo’s United States of Europe Oak, a living link with this great visionary. Open April to September.

HERM ISLAND

Just 20 minutes by boat from St Peter Port, the entire island is a car-free garden. There are so many species of plant on Herm that even the head gardener has lost count. Each year almost 20,000 summer flowering plants join the throng, and 25,000 trees have been planted in the past ten years. Herm represented the Bailiwick of Guernsey in the 2008 Britain in Bloom competition and won a gold award, and was overall winner in the Small Coastal Resorts category both last year and in 2002.

LA SEIGNEURIE GARDENS, SARK

One of the finest formal gardens in the Channel Islands, and recognised by the Royal Horticultural Society. Open April to October.

DIARY DATES 2009

Spring Walking Week Saturday to Sunday 9-17 May
Autumn Walking Week Saturday to Sunday 5-13 September
Summer Floral Festival Week Saturday to Sunday 4-12 July
Autumn Floral Festival Week Saturday 26 September to Sunday 4 October